The focus this past week has been on the late-season reds; pressing the early varieties that were harvested last week, and tracking progress of those varieties still hanging. Cabernet Franc, Blaufränkisch and Carmine have been in the fermenters this past week, and were pressed off the skins today. They are as we expected: deeply colored, nicely tannic, and with a full expression of fruit. Early next week we’ll be barreling some of these wines to begin aging. Yet again, patience will be called for with these wines—watch for them in 2019 and they will be worth the wait!

Late Season Merlot

Speaking of barrels, we are excited to have started a small batch of barrel-fermented reserve Chardonnay in our 500L (132 gal) Mercier French oak puncheons. These barrels have the advantage of a much higher volume to surface area ratio, which allows us to realize a more restrained extraction of oak flavor without sacrificing the benefits of micro-oxidation from extended time in the barrel. Fermentation in the barrel also has a positive effect on the oak uptake; yeast and malolactic bacteria increase the integration of oak extractives into the wine, ultimately reducing the intensity of the oak. An additional benefit to barrel fermentation is the opportunity to have the wine age on the dead yeast (lees). It may not sound like a positive thing, but sur lies aging, as it’s known in France, is a traditional method for enhancing the mouthfeel (texture) of the finished wine. As the yeast cells break down, components of the yeast cell walls are released into the wine, adding body and structure to the wine.

Now we get to enjoy the blessings of two great years in a row. In order to make room for a glorious future wine in these barrels, we must first avail ourselves of a formidable present one. The 2016 vintage will be bottled soon and released after a short period of rest.

Finally, we’re still watching the last of the red varieties—Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, the last of the Cabernet Franc, and Chambourcin—that are still in the vineyard. Next week’s weather is finally looking like a proper fall (though we’re not complaining about the unseasonable weather to date), and this most likely will force us to bring these varieties in. The season’s journey to this point has been grand, and we really couldn’t ask for much more from the vines, grapes or growers. The skins are starting to soften to the point that disease can easily take hold, but that also means that the tannins will be soft and supple. Sugars have been increasing and acids have been dropping, and vegetative flavors are going away to be replaced by ripe fruitiness. We will be harvesting these reds beginning early in the week and we’ll be looking forward to some great wines to come.